August 25th, 2005

me: ooh!

Day 10: Donegal to Doíre Calgaigh (Derry-stroke-Londonderry)

View from Banba's Crown
I wake at 7:30 AM and it's every bit as painful as I was expecting it to be. In fact, I'm probably still a little drunk when I slip on my shoes and tiptoe outside to call Marco. (We weren't going to speak on the phone during his trip to the US but I couldn't hold out that long. Anyone who has anything snide to say about that can kiss my ass.) Anyway, we slowly start the day with a lot of breakfast, Emergen-C and Nuprofen.

We drag ourselves out to Banba's Crown at the tip of Malin Head, the northernmost point of Ireland. We hike around the white-washed stones scattered over the cliff-top and arranged to announce presences and affections, including the meter-long ones that have been arranged to spell EIRE. (I later read in the Let's Go guidebook that it used to spell S.S. EIRE, to identify the land as neutral territory to would-be German bombers.) The air tastes of salt and I can feel it crusting on my skin. Water runs down the cliffs in rivulets, making the narrow path slippery and difficult to navigate. I can't hear anything but wind and waves. When I look up at the end of the path, I am startled to see the chasm called Hell's Hole. I sit on a patch of grass that's miraculously devoid of sheep poop and watch the rainbows form and dissolve in the spray that jets up from the crashing surf.Collapse )